Stationery Heaven: Why You Will Spend 3 Hours Looking at Pens in Tokyo
In your country, buying a pen is a chore. In Japan, it is a spiritual experience.
Japanese stationery (Bunbougu) is world-famous. Why? Because we are obsessed with detail. The paper is smoother. The ink flows better. The scissors are sharper. Once you use a high-quality Japanese notebook, you can never go back to a regular one.
As your friend, I’m warning you: Bring an empty suitcase. Here is your guide to the best stationery stores in Tokyo and what you must buy.
1. The “Yellow Paradise”: LOFT
You will see the yellow sign everywhere. Loft is the king of lifestyle goods. The Shibuya branch is huge, but the Ginza branch is also great.
- The Vibe: Trendy, colorful, and fun. It’s like a maze of things you didn’t know you needed.
- What to do: Go straight to the Stationery Floor. You will see thousands of pens.
- The Rule: TEST EVERYTHING. There are little notepads next to every pen. Scribble. Draw. Feel the ink. It is incredibly satisfying.
2. The “Apple Store of Paper”: Ginza ITOYA
If Loft is a fun pop song, Itoya (in Ginza) is a classical symphony. It is a 12-story tower dedicated entirely to stationery.
- The Vibe: Sophisticated, quiet, and beautiful.
- The Highlights:
- “Note Couture” (4th Floor): You can pick your paper and cover, and they will make a custom notebook for you right there.
- The “Paper” Floor: Hundreds of shades of paper displayed like a rainbow on the wall.
- The Vegetable Farm: Yes, they grow lettuce on the 11th floor. Don’t ask why, just go see it.
3. The “DIY” Jungle: Tokyu Hands
Look for the green hand logo. Tokyu Hands (now just “Hands”) describes itself as a “Creative Life Store.” It is more rough and practical than Itoya.
- Best for: High-performance tools, travel gadgets, and crafting supplies. If you want a pen that can write in zero gravity or scissors that cut through metal, go here.
4. What You MUST Buy (The Shopping List)
Don’t just stare at the walls. Buy these legends:
- 1. Pilot Frixion Pens (Erasable): I mentioned these before, but they are essential. The ink disappears with friction. Buy the “Zone” or “Biz” versions for a premium metal look.
- 2. Midori “MD Notebooks”: Cream-colored paper that is perfectly smooth. It opens completely flat (180 degrees). It is minimalist perfection.
- 3. Tombow “Mono” Erasers: The classic black, blue, and white stripe eraser. It erases everything without smudging.
- 4. Washi Tape (Masking Tape): Rice paper tape in a million patterns. Use it to decorate your diary, wrap gifts, or label jars. It peels off easily without leaving marks.
- 5. Kokuyo “Harinacs” (Stapleless Stapler): It staples paper together without using a metal staple. It folds the paper into itself. It feels like magic.
5. Hobonichi Techo (The Planner Cult)
If you visit in September/October, you will see crowds fighting over these. The Hobonichi Techo is Japan’s most famous daily planner. People use it as a diary, sketchbook, or scrapbook. The covers change every year and often feature designs by artists or brands like One Piece or Mother (Earthbound). It is a great way to document your travels.
Summary: The Art of Writing
In a digital world, Japan still loves the feeling of pen on paper. Walking through Itoya or Loft makes you want to start a journal, write a letter, or just draw.
Go find the pen that fits your hand perfectly. It’s the cheapest luxury you can buy.
Want to find vintage stationery shops or specialized calligraphy brushes? Our guides know the hidden backstreets of Yanaka and Jimbocho (the book town) where the old-school shops still survive. Let’s go writing!
